Kuari Pass trek, more than just a trek

Written on January 11th, 2025 by Naveen

Packing and moving is one of the most hurtful event in our lives. ~ Umar, trek leader

Day 0: Journey to the basecamp from Rishikesh

Ah, early morning travel - one of the most tiring events in my life. This trip was no different. With hardly any sleep, I got up early to meet the team and catch the travel bus. With a half-drowsy mood, I almost got the wrong bus. Thankfully, I found the right one and met half of the team in one of the bus. As we settled, we started introducing ourselves. The bus got delayed by an hour waiting for other people to reach. After the brief wait, we got moving.

Cursed with motion sickness, I took over the front seat. The bus journey was quiet for the first few hours. Laterd, the group got active and started to play some weird games that didn’t catch my interest. After being forced to take part, I reluctantly started to participate. Dancing and singing aren’t exactly my cup of tea, so I firmly avoided participating. It was pretty clear that others didn’t vibe with my behavior. It was also clear that I won’t be a good company.

On a more positive note, I enjoyed sending updates and photos to my close friends and my sister.

When we reached the basecamp, sheer exhaustion made socializing even harder. The speech from the trek leader about being one family didn’t resonate well either. We ended the day with a nice dinner followed by an update on the itinerary.

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.” ~John Muir

Day 1: Trek from Karchi Basecamp to Akhrotghetta Campsite

After a good night’s sleep at the basecamp, we prepared for the trek to our next campsite with the entire team and two other trek guides. We started off with a healthy breakfast and some light warm-up exercises, setting off in high spirits. The whole hike was relatively short, convering about 4 kms.

During the trek, each of us was randomly assigned a buddy for the day. The idea was to get to know them better and introduce them to the group later that day. However, I was completely oblivious to this and spent the day wandering around and chatting with others in the group. My buddy, Rakshith, was deeply engrossed in exploring the natural surrounding, studying trees, and learning their history. Respecting his interest, I left him to his explorations and mingled with the rest of the team.

When we arrived at our campsite in Akhrotghetta, we were greeting with a thick blanket of snow which was all very stunning. I went out to find a tentmate and got acquainted to Ninad. We quickly formed a small group and began playing in the snow. One of our games involved rolling snow into balls and tossing them to others to catch and missing a catch meant doing 10 push-ups. Later, we switched to a snowball fight, splitting into three teams and pelting each other with snowballs. The energy was infectious, and everyone seemed to be having a fantastic time. When we grew tired, we shifted to sculpting simple figures in the snow.

While we played, the only couple in our team stood apart, gazing at the surrounding peaks and holding hands. Their companionship struck a chord with me, stirring a longing for love that I hadn’t been successful in finding over years. But I decided not to have such thoughts and instead busied myself unpacking and organizing my belongings in the tent.

As the dinner approached, it was time for our buddy introductions. Each of us had to describe our buddy and also pick someone we admired in the group. When my turn came, I gave a brief introduction about Rakshith, mentioning his interests. But when it was his turn to speak about me, I was taken aback by his observations. He described me as someone “filled with wisdom, who can be a child when playing but extremely mature when handling important and sensitive situations.” As if that wasn’t surprising enough, another teammate, Pooja declared me her favorite, citing my jovial nature and willingness to help others when needed. I was completely dumbfounded by these compliments. I quietly thanked them, too overwhelmed to say anything. Sometimes silence speaks louder than words.

That night, as I stared at the mountains, I was moved to tears. While I had always known my friends and acquaintances who enjoyed my company, no one had ever expressed such admiration. It felt as though the mountains had conspired to help me confront my vulnerabilities and leave as a stronger person.

Post dinner, we had to wash our own dishes in freezing temperatures. It was, without a doubt, the most painful task we faced during the entire trek.

Despite this ordeal, some of us gathered in the common tent area to have deep conversations about our lives. I also contributed my own share of experiences of how some obstacles were needed to level me up. These heartfelt discussions brought an instant bond. It was becoming clear that the team was slowly transforming into a family. After a few hours, we all retired to our tents, ready to rest for the next day’s adventure. Before the day closed, I sent out a broadcast in the form of pictures.

Day 2: Trek from Akhrotghetta to Khullara

Our day started as usual with tea and breakfast. From my past experience with IndiaHikes, I had grown fond of their DIY trekking approach, where some members of the group take on roles like trek leader, guide, and kitchen staff. After the day’s briefing, we embarked on our trek, led by our DIY trek leaders and guides. But before setting off, we were shown how to wear and use microspikes, which turned out to be quite a struggle just to get onto our shoes.

Under the guidance of our new trek leaders, the group quickly spread out but still well managed. I was with the front group, and we were advised to reach the campsite ahead of the others and inform the campsite crew about our early arrival. Similar to the previous day, most of the trail passed through the forest. However, this time, a thick layer of snow covered the ground from the very beginning. While we trekked, Dronagiri again started to reveal itself through the trees - appearing to look more and more mysterious. During our breaks, we were told fascinating stories about the flora and fauna of the forest. Since it was another short hike, most of the group arrived at the next campsite by noon. Despite the short distance, we had a great time with our trek leaders - Pooja, Daksh, and Pranab - who took excellent care of the group.

Upon reaching the campsite, we were greeted by the crew and served welcome drinks. Just like on my previous trek, they offered us a tangy-flavored juice. It tasted so good that I ended up drinking almost a liter of it. As I went for more, Ravi warned me that it might be intended for digestion and could upset my stomach. A few minutes after lunch, I started feeling its effects - but luckily, it was just a brief instance and nothing severe.

Most of us retreated to our tents to rest and to get to know their tentmates a little better. Though the campsite was known for its elevation and cold weather, we initially felt warm - unaware that it was all due to the Sun. As soon as the shadows began moving over the campsite, we could feel the chill in the air. The drop in temperature was too harsh to bear, and we all quickly layered up. I discovered a little later that the spots for peeing were some distance away from our tents. Looking back now, considering the number of times I walked there to find a spot, I might as well have completed another day’s worth of hiking, of course, I am exagerating, but it was comparable.

After a brief snack break in the evening, we were informed about the summit attempt of the next day. While much of the discussion was inspiring, what particularly caught my attention was the mention of a small window of time for the attempt - missing it could mean missing the chance to reach the summit altogether. Partially intrigued, excitement started to build among many in the group.

“Returning home is the most difficult part of long-distance hiking. You have grown outside the puzzle and your piece no longer fits.” ~Cindy Ross

About an hour later, we gathered for dinner. I wasn’t sure if it was the elevation or the hunger that enhanced our taste buds, but the meal felt like the most delicious food I had eaten in years. As there was no mobile signal reception, I couldn’t broadcast my updates for the day.

After dinner, we all gathered around a fireplace and started playing games for a short while. However, after a few failed attempts to get a game going, many dropped out and instead began sharing personal stories - ranging from their experiences with love to their craziest adventures. Among them, I was particularly struck by how Abhi and Su met and eventually reached the point where they are now happily married. As my thoughts drifted away, I silently wished them the best and continued listening to their journey. These conversations were no longer superficial, they became deeply personal, with many offering valuable advice to each other. Most of our experiences were remarkably relatable, making the discussions even more meaningful.

Soon, we all dispersed. Gazing at the stars and the mountains, we decided to capture some night shots of the sky. The Orion constellation was visible only on one side - toward the designated pee spots. Walking there with our headlights on was quite an adventure; stepping into the snow could risk hitting rocks underneath or even slipping. In such freezing weather, even a small cut could cause unbearable pain. At -10°C, Gaurav, Balaram, and I were out in the cold, taking pictures and experimenting with astrophotography. The experience felt like déjà vu from my time at Thilandi Top during the Brahmatal trek, where I had tried to capture Mt. Trisul - only this time, it was Mt. Dronagiri.

As we finally retired to our tents, little did we know that we were in for another brutally cold night. Waking up in the middle of the night, I noticed a thin layer of ice forming on the inside of the tent which was a result of the trapped moisture freezing in the frigid air. Before I knew it, I had fallen asleep.

Day 3: Trek from Khullara to Chaini along with the summit push

“Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb.” ~Greg Child

Our special day started quite early that morning. It was absolute chaos - finishing the morning routine, repacking all the contents of my bag into the sleeping liner (since we were advised to take only the essentials and leave the rest in the common tents), and packing lunch. Added to all that, it was also an early start. As usual, being poor at planning ahead, I scrambled at the last minute, juggling between packing my hiking bag and sleep liner. In my rush, I foolishly forgot my headlamp in the tent where I had slept.

By the time I was ready, the entire team had already left - except for Shubham, who wasn’t feeling well enough to attempt the summit. I was the last person to start, several minutes behind the group. In my haste, I experienced the first fall of my life - definitely not the last - when the chain of my left shoe’s microspikes got tangled in the eyelet of my right shoe. That was a good one. The fall was so dramatic that I could still recall the sequence vividly even a month later. The moment I realized my shoes were stuck and I was about to fall, I instinctively took my wrists out of my trekking poles and tossed them aside. I looked for a safe spot to place my hands to minimize impact, managing to land my right hand on a thick layer of snow and my left on the snowy trail. Just to be sure, I looked around to check if anyone had seen my fall - it would have been embarrassing if someone had - but thankfully, I was the last one, and the group was far ahead. Fortunately, the fall wasn’t severe, and I continued with a bit more caution.

Within a few minutes, I managed to catch up with the slower-moving group in my team. That was when Su collapsed from exhaustion. What happened next only deepened my respect for this new family I had found. Su was determined to reach the summit - mainly because it was Abhi’s (her husband’s) dream for them to do it together and this was their first one. Without hesitation, Rakshith and Keerthi offered to help carry her belongings. At the same time, Aman descended from a considerable distance to check on Su and offer her his gloves. Seeing that everything was being taken care of, I continued moving forward to meet the rest of the group.

As we began our ascent, the landscape transformed - the snowy fields stretched endlessly before us, with no trace of sand or rocks, just pure, untouched snow.

While checking in on everyone, I noticed that Pooja - usually the most energetic person in the group, didn’t seem as excited as she had been the day before. It was clear she wasn’t feeling well. I offered her my sunglasses, hoping they might help, but I also wanted to witness the true colors of the snow without the tinted filter. Seeing that she could manage on her own, I quickly moved to the front of the group. Then came the most nerve-wracking part of the trail. Not only was it highly exposed, but it was also incredibly narrow, covered entirely in snow. As people descended from the summit, the already difficult path became even more challenging. Everyone had to lean carefully to the side to make space for others to pass - each step demanding complete focus.

Just as we were walking along the ledge, Keerthi’s microspike chain got tangled in the eyelet of her other shoe, causing her to trip. Luck was on her side - she simply fell and landed in a seated position. A fall in either direction could have been fatal. Ninad, who was right behind her, quickly checked on her and helped her get back on her feet.

After walking for a few more minutes, we decided to take a break to let the others catch up. We stopped at the top of a cliff where there were stones to sit on. Dropping my bag, I moved cautiously, making sure not to look down the cliff. Distracted by fear, I failed to pay attention to my footing, and just as I was about to sit, my shoes got tangled once again. Then came another fall - this time, right on the edge of the cliff. Fortunately, I had already grabbed hold of a rock while preparing to sit, preventing a more dangerous slip. This fall was a little more severe, scraping both my knees and my pants - and yes, in memory of this fall, I now have a torn pair of pants. The others checked on me to make sure I was alright, and once I had recovered, I sat down to untangle my shoes.

Once the entire team had gathered, we began our final climb toward the summit. Just a few minutes later, we reached the top - surrounded by towering peaks and an incredible 300 - degree of panoramic view. What I wanted to express in that moment is beyond words. We paused briefly to take pictures.

Umar then gave us a few moments to absorb the silence and reflect inwardly. I listened keenly, trying to understand what these immensely tall peaks were whispering to me. The thoughts that followed were overwhelming - all the good and bad moments of my life started flashing through my mind. I wasn’t sure if they were anticipating an abrupt end or if it was just my own hallucination. But in that moment, my priorities started to crystallize. I thought I was the only one feeling this way, but then I noticed Ninad, Pooja, and a few others with tears in their eyes. Realizing that they were going through the same wave of emotions, I greeted them in silent understanding. As we slowly began our descent, the group was quieter than ever before - undoubtedly, deep realizations were settling in.

“Look deep into the nature and you will understand everything better.” ~Albert Einstein

Walking back along the same ledge we had crossed to reach the summit, we faced the same challenges once again. On the way down, a few members of our group took a shortcut - or rather, a more adventurous route - by sliding down on their backs. While the idea seemed fun, I decided to pass, not wanting snow to get into my clothes.

By this point, most of us were desperately looking for a place to have their lunch, but the landscape was completely open, with no boulders or trees to provide cover. Eventually, we found a suitable place to rest, which also became our lunch spot. Eating in the shade had never felt so daunting - the breeze made all of us shiver. Umar warned us about the dangers of the wind at this elevation, so we quickly wrapped up our lunch and resumed our descent. Once we reached the campsite where we had started, we had a few minutes to repack everything we had taken out and organize our backpacks.

After everyone had packed up, we began our descent to our next campsite, Chaini. The trail led us through another steep descent in the forest. Along the way, I became more acquainted with the other half of the group, discussing jobs, favorite books, movies, and TV shows. After about two hours, we arrived at our campsite. As we entered our tents, we quickly realized they were set up on thick patches of snow, making the ground uneven and uncomfortable. But we rested for a bit before heading out for snacks. Ninad and I took turns using the tent to layer up. This campsite felt oddly colder - perhaps because it remained in the shadows most of the time and was highly exposed to the wind.

Since I had lost my headlamp, I hoped I wouldn’t need to use the toilet tent during the night. Carrying my phone for light was an option, but it wouldn’t be as convenient, so I decided I would borrow a headlamp if necessary. We spent the evening talking about our summit experience until dinner time. The temperature dropped quickly, and a fireplace was set up to provide some warmth. When dinner arrived, we ate quickly, eager to get a good night’s sleep.

However, half of the group stayed back in the common tent to listen to Aman’s haunted stories. Too exhausted from the day’s trek, I decided to return to my tent to rest. Meanwhile, a few others were engaging in inter-tent conversations. Since my tent was nearby, I joined in as well, from my own tent. What started as casual chatter with Balaram, Daksh, Gaurav, and me soon turned into an hours-long discussion covering a broad range of topics - law, lithography, computer architecture, 3D printing, radio waves, and workplace cultures across the world. Without realizing it, I drifted off to sleep. But not long after, I woke up in the middle of the night to find myself sliding down inside my tent. No matter how much I pushed myself back up, I struggled to get any proper rest. Luckily, I didn’t have to use the toilet tent that night.

The next morning, Priyatam and Pooja told me about the eerie ghost stories from the night before. Listening to them during the day was unsettling enough - but knowing that some of the stories had actually happened in our previous campsite was even more scary - but gave me a relief now that we have crossed it.

Day 4: Trek from Chaini Campsite to Dhak Basecamp

It was yet another short descent through the forest. Most of the group remained unusually silent - understandably as the trek was coming to an end. As we descended further, we started to see signs of civilization - roads, more people, and vehicles. Strangely, it was a satisfying sight. At the trek’s endpoint, vehicles were waiting to transport us back to the campsite. After entering our designated rooms, seeing proper toilets and showers reminded us of how our usual comforts had briefly become luxuries. After wrapping up lunch and snacks for the day, we all gathered in a room for the official closing of the trek.

As everyone assembled in the common room, we had the opportunity to share our thoughts. While each speech was captivating, I was particularly moved by Rakshit’s. He spoke about how many people in his life had left him alone, and when he broke into tears, it became evident how much this newfound family has started to mean to him. Even before hearing his words, observing him from a distance, I had wondered how someone could be so selfless, empathetic, and full of joy. It was clear that he was carrying something immense, and what he shared was likely just the tip of the iceberg.

Towards the end of the closing session, both Rakshit and Su were recognized for their exceptional trekking spirit - an appreciation that, in my opinion, was well deserved. Umar, our trek leader, also opened up about how difficult it was for him to pack up and move on after every trek. He mentioned that IndiaHikes even has a team of counselors to help people cope with the strong yet short-lived bonds formed during these experiences. Priyatam’s words also stayed with me - he said he would use this trek as a reminder during difficult times, laughing off challenges by saying, “I did the Kuari Pass trek bro. This is nothing.”

We wrapped up the session and spent the rest of the evening playing games around the campfire. While many stayed up until midnight, I had to retire early to catch my morning bus and get more rest.

Day 5: Bus Journey from Dhak Basecamp to Rishikesh

The pickup from Dhak was scheduled for early morning. However, a group of people had different plans—they decided to visit Joshimath and opted to take a public bus. We bid them farewell with hugs and tears, knowing that we might never see each other again. After the emotional send-off, we boarded our pickup bus and began our journey toward Rishikesh. Fighting off drowsiness while forcing myself to stay awake due to motion sickness, I half-consciously listened to the conversations and songs playing on the bus. Now, I have a collection of songs that will always remind me of the trek and the people who sang them along the way.

After about a ten-hour bus ride, we finally reached Rishikesh. Unfortunately, due to foresight - usually comes in handy and this time it didn’t, I had booked a different hostel from the rest of the group. After quickly freshening up, we all headed to Triveni Ghat for the evening Ganga Aarti. Describing the Ganga Aarti would require an entire series of posts and pictures, but in short, visiting this place was a deeply spiritual and self-awakening experience. Nothing in the world felt more refreshing and soul-stirring than listening to the aartis. Once the ceremony was over, we decided to explore the markets for some shopping before dinner.

We explored various shops to see what souvenirs we could buy. That’s when Pooja suggested that I buy something nice for my sister. While Pooja and Keerthi were picking out earrings for themselves, and Priyatam was selecting a gift for his wife, they also helped me choose a pair of earrings for my sister, which I eventually bought. Rahul insisted on accompanying me to help with the bargaining, ensuring that I could focus solely on what I wanted to buy. With his help, I purchased several souvenirs for my family and friends.

After finishing our shopping, we headed to a nearby Rajasthani restaurant, which was also Rakshit’s suggestion. We enjoyed nearly twelve different dishes while we were there. The way everyone treated each other around the table reminded me of my own family - each person urging the others to eat more while taking care of what to order. Rahul and Shubham were particularly persistent in making sure I had the best food, knowing my appetite - something which reminding me of my mother. Soon after dinner, we headed back to our hostels, saying our final farewells before retiring for the night.

On my way back, I was lost in thought about how people who were complete strangers just days ago had come to care for one another so deeply - while even good acquaintances often fail to even come close. There was something truly magical about these people, which only deepened my fascination with our culture.

Sayonara, amigos - until next time, will love you all!

Closing thoughts

“Climb that mountain - because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in an office or mowing the lawn.” ~Jack Kerouac

My experience during the Brahmatal Trek had already set an incredibly high bar - not just because it was my first hike, but also because of the amazing people I met. However, this trek has set a new benchmark - twice as high as the previous one.

Mountains, their sheer heights remind us to stand tall at all times, no matter the storms or thunders we face. This journey has highlighted the importance of comrades - how we lift each other up in times of need. From an initial awkward confrontation with the group, to calling each other family and saying tearful goodbyes, I have come to realize that there is something profoundly powerful about human connections that has recently begun to fascinate me.

In my opinion, what made this trek even more special was the awareness that our time together would be short-lived - only a few days at most. This made us cherish every moment, leaving behind our worries to fully embrace the experience. While this was perfectly apt for the hike, isn’t it also a stark reminder that our time on this planet is equally limited? Perhaps longer than our days on the trek, but still short in the grand scheme of the universe. So, shouldn’t we live each moment with that perspective in mind?

All in all, this trek was 30% about the views and the trail, and 70% about the people, the bonds we formed, and the journey we shared. I couldn’t have asked for a better experience.

Mountains - who knew classrooms could be this beautiful, and lessons this powerful and deep? Thank you, Himalayas. I leave only to return again, as a strong me.